Motorcycle maintenance is one of the most misinterpreted phrases in the biking world. When uttered, what generally comes to mind is greasy hands and a bunch of specialized tools. Not true. In the real sense, it involves nothing more than periodic checks and small tasks that are atypically considered to be the equivalent of Boogy Man when in reality it is more akin to a cuddly kitten. So what Regular Checks need to be performed and what tasks need to be completed to keep your motorcycle happy and running in the best possible condition for decades together? Here are a few suggestions. 

If you go through any user manual, you will come across a section which describes in detail some checks to be performed by the rider before riding the motorcycle. They are simple visual checks which can be performed in a few minutes. Here's a  low down on those basic checks

Check engine oil: Engine oil level can be checked either through the oil inspection window or using the dip-stick. The bike needs to be upright/on its center stand (if available) to perform this check. Simply let the bike stand upright for a few seconds so that the oil has a chance to settle at the bottom of the sump. Next, check the inspection window which will have some markings to gauge oil level. In case of a dip-stick, remove it by unscrewing it, wipe it on a rag and reinsert it while keeping the bike upright. This process will give u the best estimate of the oil level in the engine. If the oil level is below recommended levels, then top up. If more than the recommended level then it is advisable to drain the oil and refill the engine with the precise amount specified in the owner’s manual. If level is OK then you are ready to ride. Also make sure that there are no oil leaks from any location on the engine. IMPORTANT: Make sure you are using the specified grade of oil for your engine.

Check Controls: Check whether all controls, viz clutch/brake levers, rear brake pedal and gear shift pedal, can be operated without any issue. They should not stick. Lubricate if controls are sticky using some oil/grease or change cables if the problem is with the clutch/front brake (drum in this case). Check the steering by turning the bars all the way from the right to the left and back again. A sticky steering may be due to a tight or worn out steering stem bearing (popularly known as “Cone Set”). If an issue exists, get it checked at the service station/trusted mechanic. Check whether the throttle snaps back into closed position after it is twisted all the way to open position. If sticky, then check whether the cable is getting pinched somewhere on its way to the carburetor/throttle body and replace if issue persists. Check that all switches are performing the tasks they should. If there is any issue with either one of these controls, it is advisable to check and rectify the issue immediately. If you are adept enough at performing the tasks, then go right ahead. If not, then do take the bike to the authorized service center/trusted mechanic to fix the issue immediately. 

Check Front and Rear Brakes: One of the most important checks to be performed before riding off is to check whether your brakes are performing the way they should. Check that your brake pads/shoes have enough friction material left on them. On motorcycles equipped with disc brakes, one can just take a peak from the front side of the caliper to check the amount of friction material on the brake pad. For drum brakes, one needs to look for the wear indicator which can be found right where the brake lever/rod connects to the lever on the drum itself. There will be a small mark or “operating range” indicator on the drum. In case of disc brakes, check that the brake system is not leaking any brake fluid. IMPORTANT: Brake fluid is extremely corrosive so getting any of it on your bike’s painted surfaces is a big NO NO. 

Check Tyres and Wheels: Check that both the front and rear tyres are inflated to the correct pressure at least once a week. The front and rear tyre pressures are generally mentioned right on the swingarm or on some other location on the motorcycle. It can also be found in the owner’s manual. Also check for tread wear. Generally there should be at least 1mm of tread depth left on the tyre for it to perform its task properly. One can also gauge the amount of life left by checking for wear indicators. They are small lines within the tread which, when the tyre is worn out, are perfectly level with the tyre surface. If this is the case, it is advisable to get a fresh set of tyres. Keep in mind that the tyres are the only thing keeping you in contact with the road surface. Do not skimp on a set of good tyres; they are the only things keeping you upright and away from hitting the road. Also check for any foreign objects sticking in the tyre surface or between the tread blocks. Remove these. Check the rims by putting up the bike on the centre stand or by rolling the bike forward/backward in case the centre stand is not present. Look for dents/deformities on the outer edge which can mean that the last pothole that you hit has successfully screwed up your happiness and you need to go in for a new hoop. Check that the rims do not wobble in any way by grabbing on to the spokes and trying to move the whole wheel forward and backward/sideways. This is done to check whether the bearings are in perfect working condition. A wobble at high-speed can lead to a crash and a world of misery; so keep this in mind. Lastly, check that the valve on the rim has a cap and is not leaky. A cap actually helps reduce the loss of air during operation of the bike.

Check Drive Chain and Sprockets: Make sure that your bike’s drive chain has the requisite tension, is properly cleaned with a specified chain cleaning solution and lubricated with a specified oil or chain lube. It is the only thing transferring the engine’s power to the rear wheel so it will pay dividends to keep this part of your motorcycle in perfect working condition. Check whether it has any tight spots by putting the motorcycle up on a center/paddock stand and manually rotating the rear wheel. Check the chain slack at different locations by pulling the chain up and down. Adjust the slack at the tightest location on the chain. The amount of slack is usually mentioned in the owner’s manual or right there on the swingarm. If the slack adjuster has reached its outer limit, then it is time to go in for a new set of chain and sprockets. Check the sprocket teeth for nicks or cracks. If a bent/broken tooth is found, then it is time for changing the whole set. IMPORTANT: Always go in for a set of chain as well as sprockets. Over time, the wear pattern on these components matches up. Hence a worn out set of sprockets and a new chain or vice-versa is a bad idea.

Check Suspension: The easiest check that one can perform. Sit on the bike and bounce! Make sure that the bike rises back up to its original position without sticking anywhere in the compression or rebound stroke. What many people fail to understand is that getting your forks services regularly is just as important as feeding your engine with good oil and fuel. The interval for changing the fork oil will be mentioned in the owner’s manual. Do go in for this when specified because it is not just the spring in the shocks and forks that make up the suspension; oil is the integral part of the damping system and needs to be kept in good condition. If you have NitroX OR gas charged rear shock absorbers like on the Pulsars, then it is a good idea to get the gas refilled periodically. It does make a world of difference. Check at the authorized service center for these issues as they are the most qualified to rectify issues with the suspension in most cases. 

Check Fuel Level: Make sure you have enough fuel for your planned ride OR to reach the nearest fuel station. It is advisable to keep at least 2 to 3 liters of fuel in the tank at all times in order to keep the impurities/muck at the bottom of the tank from getting into and clogging up the fuel pump/carburetor. Not absolutely essential though. Also make sure that your ride is not leaking fuel. A simple look at the fuel lines or at the surface on which your bike is parked will tell you the whole story. Changing fuel lines once every two to three years is advisable but not absolutely essential.  

Check all Lights: Make sure that all your lights, viz headlamp, front/rear indicators, brake/parking lamps and cluster lamps are working. It can be a disaster if you are out on a ride and you realize that its nightfall and your headlights are not working. Most manufacturers provide spare fuses within the bike so in case one of these goes caput you can replace it and be on your way. Check the user manual for the location of this replacement fuse. Also check that your horn is in working order. On our roads, this is an indispensable instrument.

Last but not the least; the toolkit: Make sure the motorcycle’s tool kit has all the requisite tools that came with the bike when it was new. These are usually all one needs to perform small jobs in case of emergencies. Make sure the tool kit is properly secured in its location with the rubber strap provided. If not, then it can always be carried along in a bag.

If done well and once you are in the habit of doing the checks regularly you will be able to do all the above 9 checks within 5 minutes. The more you care for your bike..the more enjoyable your biking is going to be. Good luck ride safe and ride on !